Page 16 - SA Mountain Issue 62

The following day we did some more climbing on Table Mountain and then headed out to Du Toit’s Kloof with a stop at Fairview wine estate to sample some cheese and wine.
on Newborn (29) the super-hard sport route. They clearly had an orgasmic time as evidenced by some of the shrieks that emanated from that part of the wall during the day. Allister Fenton and Bruce Millar found some challenges on the Extra Time 24 roof pitch, but enjoyed it. Charlie Standing (almost) climbed Timerity (22) with young Luke Eberhard, but Luke
went off route on the crux pitch and I
saw him hanging there a very long time. Austin Siadak climbed Fun Time (20) with Garrreth Bird and Andy Wyatt, and Dylan Johnson accompanied by Nadine styled up Test of Time (24). Damian Schumann and Jarrett Engelbrecht climbed Lekker Time (17).
On Saturday, after a signi cant party at Du Toit’s Kloof Lodge, those who were feeling strong enough went to Hell re, and Mark Straughan, ably assisted by Allister Fenton, took the two young lads, Duncan Edelstein and David Straughan bouldering. They developed a boulder area dubbed Purgatory, and made some excellent problems around the electricity pylon on the walk up to Hell re. Johann Lanz and young Luke went and climbed Good Time (21) at Yellowwood, and Jean- Paul and Illona did Divine Time (19).
Friday was scheduled as the big day
at Yellowwood Amphitheatre, and this required some careful planning and pairing up. Completing a major route at Yellowwood on any given day is no mean feat and only about half the participants on the exchange last year did so. Phlip was versed on climbing Fantastic Time (23), and he and Chris Weidner went and styled the route. The soon-to-be problem child, Maury, latched onto Jimbo, our current rock-jock and they raced up Show Time (25) in excellent style. Clifford Hakimi was tasked to climb with Heather
Several climbers sent Hell re (24), including Jenn, Willem le Roux, and Richard Halsey, and Austin, Andy and Dylan went adventure climbing up Cameron’s Ridge.
14 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2017
Dylan Johnson follows up the opening pitches of A Dog Day in Heaven. Photo MAURY BIRDWELL
The start of the walk up to Blouberg. Photo DAMIEN SCHUMANN
did the direct version on lead for the rst time, and was super chuffed about it. The second pitch is one of those all-time iconic intimidating hard core trad pitches, 40 metres long. Although it is not unsafe, it is super scary and run out, with three cruxes of which the rst two are run out. The hardest move is well above your gear that amounts to two micro cams. Madaleine executed a very impressive ash of the pitch with slow meticulous precision. I then led the super run out next 22 X pitch and then things started unravelling. The sun hit us like a sledgehammer, and that was also the start of Madaleine feeling unwell, but she did do the long pumpy 55-metre grade-21 pitch to the halfway ledge. It was sti ingly hot when we got there, and I went to plan B – nishing up
Madaleine Sorkin was touted as the strongest climber of the group. Just last year she did a ne free ascent of one of
Sunday 19 it was back to Table Mountain where a variety of classic routes of all grades were done with a whole
host of local climbers joining in for the day. Captain Hook stymied Maury until
I suggested the cunning knee bar, but
the hardest high altitude trad routes in the world on Longs Peak. I last climbed Prime Time Direct (25) a few years ago, and I thought she would be the ideal candidate to haul my aging arse up the route one more time. I led the rst pitch (23) and
a shady pitch to the right of Smalblaar Ridge, thereby avoiding six hours of hard climbing in direct sunlight.
Madaleine then started deteriorating and was slow on the walk down to the rap route, and then really suffered walking down to Du Toit’s Kloof Lodge. She remained ill for days, and unfortunately had to return to the States without
any further climbing. Chris also then succumbed to a stomach bug and he was down for the next two days.