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TO SUPPORT THE OPENING OF NEW BOLTED ROUTES IN THE WESTERN CAPE TO FURTHER THE SPORT OF ROCK CLIMBING.
Everybody loves climbing sport routes. And what is better than new routes going up on existing or new crags?
Bolting new lines is hard work, and to do so one needs experience in identifying a good line for a route and also the knowledge regarding safe bolting practices and establishing the line in terms of aesthetics and cleaning, etc
The other aspect is the funding that goes into a bolted route:
Your average bolted route is 8 to 10 bolts long, plus top anchors. This equates to about R1000 minimum for one route if you add the costs of the bolts, the hangers, the top anchor system and the drill bits together. Not taking into consideration the very healthy outlay of at least R6000 for a drill to begin with.
These costs are quite exorbitant and it is becoming increasingly difficult for climbers to put up new routes. Routes that we all go out and enjoy.
On quite a few occasions I have been approached by climbers at the crags offering to invest money into bolting new routes and up till recently I have not done anything about it.
So here is the opportunity to help fund the bolting of new sort routes: SA Mountain will be hosting a bolting fund for the Western Cape area, to facilitate the financing of new bolted routes.
The names of all sponsors with reflecting amounts sponsored will go up on the SA Mountain website.
Also reflected will be the names of the new routes put up, the bolter and amount of hardware used for each sponsored route.
How it works
1. A potential bolter must first apply through the correct channels to bolt their route: ie, any route on CapeNature or National Parks land must be applied for through the MCSA Rock sub committee as per usual. If on private land the owners, or the appointed custodian must vet the bolting of the route.
2. All applicants must be “recognised bolters” and/or hold a certificate of proficiency regarding correct and safe bolting practices. Short bolting courses will be available through the MCSA. Click here to enrol on a course.
3. Once the route is approved, the bolter can then contact Tony (email@example.com), email the relevant paperwork through, and apply for a subsidy towards the bolts and related hardware.
4. The sponsoring of hardware will be on a sliding scale depending on the grade of the route. Routes that will attract the most climbers will get the highest sponsorship and will slide from there. See table below for more info.
Sponsorship sliding scale – 100% = R60 per hole drilled
Grades up to 13 – 40%
Grade 14 to 16 – 60%
Grade 17 to 20 – 90%
Grade 21 to 23 – 60%
Grade 24 to 26 – 40%
Grade 26 and above – you’re on your own
A further calculation will be implemented for routes that far off the beaten track and perhaps not near other routes, etc
5. The sponsoring of bolts will also be subject to the accessibility of the route. Eg: On a private farm with limited access, etc, or on a high mountain crag with a long approach. Ie: the more user friendly the route the greater the chance of sponsorship.
6. The bolter must mail in all relevant information regarding the route once it has been bolted: Area, name of route, grade, name of climber and date of opening ascent. And very importantly, the number of bolts and anchors, etc used, so we can calculate the correct amount due to the bolter.
7. Sponsorship is subject to the amount of funds available in the Bolting Fund account at the time.
8. All bolts and related hardware will adhere strictly to the standards set down by the MCSA.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS BOLTING FUND IS NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH ARF (ANCHOR REPLACEMENT FUND). ARF IS A FUND SOLEY FOR THE REPLACEMENT OF OLD BOLTS AND ANCHORS AND TO DATE THEY HAVE DONE A BRILLIANT JOB IN DOING JUST THAT.