An awesome crag with a bunch of fine, steep intimidating routes.
Approach
From the Avalon Springs Hotel, approach as for World’s Apart, then continue along, passing Uriah Heep, The Playground and The Swamp on your right. Just after this (with The Palace in full view high on the slopes in front), the main path will veer right to cross the river. At this point, rather carry on straight for a while till the path comes to a sort of dead end. Scramble up on the left to gain the slope above the broken rock band, then contour along to the right, till able to scramble up to the base of the crag. An alternative approach, which is less bushy but entails getting your feet wet, is to carry on with the main path to cross the river via planks and sandbags and continue for a while, past a low rock band on your right. Turn the corner of the kloof and, just before you enter some long reeds, peel off to the left to gain the bank of the river. Cross here (knee deep) and scramble up the slope to the base of the crag.
[one_half]1. Bad Cop, No Donut *** 24/7a [5B,C] J. Samson 2004
2. German Route ** 22/6c? [5B,C] Unknown
3. Icarus **** 23/6c+ [12B,C] S. Brown 2010
4. Elegantly Wasted *** 26/7b [10B,C] J. Temple-Forbes 1999
5. S1O2 *** 25/7a+ [10B,C] J. Orton 2004
6. Lexi’s Route *** 25/7a+ [7B,C] Unknown
7. Keep on Going *** 26/7b [9B,C] A. Davies 2006
8. Cyberpunk ***** 25/7a+ [9B,C] R. Nattrass 1996
9. Moonaboos *** 27/7b+ [10B,C] J. Orton 1999
10. Shagadelic *** 23/6c+ [8B,C] J. Orton 2000
11. Shagadelic Supreme **** 23/6c+ [10B,C] A. Davies 2006
12. Burning Chrome *** 28/7c [14B,C] R. Nattrass 1995
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[one_half_last]13. Judge Dredd *** 29/7c+ [13B,C] R. Nattrass 1996
14. Strange Days **** 31/8a+ [5B,C] E. Wiercx 1997
15. About Time *** 27/7b+ [12B,C] C. Martinengo 2004
16. The Activist **** 30/8a [11B,C] R. Nattrass 1995
17. The Neuromancer ***** 23/6c+ [8B,C] R. Nattrass 1995
18. Mad Max (wimp) *** 13/4b [7B,C] S. Brown 2002
19. Mad Max *** 21/6c+ [14B,C] S. Brown 2002
Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between the wimp pitch and the top pitch.
20. Psycho Ranger (wimp) *** 15/5a [6B,C] S. Brown 2002
21. Psycho Ranger *** 20/6b [13B,C] S. Brown 2002
Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between the wimp pitch and the top pitch.
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