Flight of the Bumble Bee 20 ****


flight-of-the-bumble-bee
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen 19/4/2012

A classic direct line up the centre of Bee buttress, never deviating more than a metre either way and pulling through some interesting roofs. Great climbing with good gear.

Start: From the tea spot at the bottom left side of the buttress, scramble around the exposed corner. Start up the obvious break about one metre to the right of the corner.

1. 25m 16: Pull strenuously onto the high undercut face and climb directly up to the good ledge. This is the first pitch of Double Take

2. 20m 20: Between Double Take on the left and Bee Sting on the right, climb the flat wall to a ledge, then step right to the base of a square, shallow break, with an old abandoned rusty peg. From here the pitch goes straight up. Pull straight up to the rail, then do a thin move to gain the next rail beneath the crux. Step left and layback through the overlap to below the big roof. Pull strenuously through this on good holds to gain a perfect platform stance.

3. 35m 17: Pull up the flat wall on high jugs to gain the wide rail. Step left and pull through the small roof on beautiful layback flakes to gain the bulging wall above. Blast up this till it eases, then continue into a corner. Just before the top of the corner, step right onto a clean arête to avoid the sandy corner top out and climb to a ledge. From the ledge, pull up onto the face, then move diagonally left, beneath the tree, to reach the next ledge. Pull through the short bulgy roof section to gain the top of the buttress. This last bulgy roof section can be avoided by walking off to the right, but it seemed such a fitting finale to the route.

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