el Matador **** (19)


FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen 11 Oct 2015

A fairly direct route up the centre of the Bullshoot Prow, blasting straight through the traverses of Bullshoot. Takes in some steepish climbing, breaking through two roofs, including the intimidating-looking double tier roof near the top of pitch 3. Good climbing with excellent gear all the way.

Check the approach details for Bullshoot in the Cape Peninsula Select guidebook.

Start: About 20 metres to the left of Bullshoot, at a short slit beneath a ledge with double blocks on it.

1. 20m 15: Climb the slit and stand on top of the double blocks. Step off right onto the face and climb more-or-less straight up, pulling through some small overlaps on the way, to reach a big ledge.

2. 15m 17: Slightly to the right of where pitch 1 ends is a short undercut layback slit. Climb up to the right of this to a ledge. Step slightly left and climb the short steepish face to gain a long protruding block. Step off the right end of the block and swing across the slightly undercut wall to a good foothold beneath a small roof. Pull through this on excellent layaways for the left hand and a good pocket for the right, to gain easier ground and a small but good stance up and off to the right.

3. 20m 19: Move up the flakey fault to the base of a corner/groove (crossing Bullshoot). Pull awkwardly into this and continue up (still awkwardly) till able to stand more comfortably on a shelf on the left. Move up steeply, but on fairly good holds till able to mantleshelf onto a long platform. Move higher (crossing Bullshoot again), using a good jutting prong, to below the big roof. Pull up to the left on a good rail beneath the lip of the roof and break through using the huge flake system above. Continue more easily to the big ledge above.

Descent: Walk of to the left into Africa Ravine and down this to the base of the route.

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