Erebor, Italy’s hardest route – Stefano Ghisolfi


On the 8th of January, Stefano Ghisolfi added Erebor F9b/+ in Arco. It is believed to be Italy’s hardest sport route.

“It took me a lot of time, but I finally did it. Erebor is no more a project and became reality last Friday, with super cold weather and numb fingers I was able to climb the very first route I bolted in my life!

It has been a crazy process, begun after the first lockdown, bolted with the help (and the drill) of @sevescassa and tried for the first time last June, I immediately realized it was nearly impossible. After summer I started trying some attempts but only in the new year I was able to clip the chain, after falling at the last moves more than 10 times.

In my opinion I never climbed in Italy something as hard as this route, but I still think it doesn’t reach the full 9b+ comparing it to Change or Perfecto Mundo. Therefore my grade suggestion is 9b/+ that makes it the hardest route in Italy and my proudest first ascent, and I’m looking forward someone will come and repeat it soon!

Last but not least, this is the “easier” variant of the route, and I already bolted a much harder version. This is another story (but I already thought “The Lonely Mountain” project would be a great name for that one.”

Source: Stefano’s IG

Photo: Stefano Ghisolfi on Erebor. By Sara Grippo

Previous Luca Rinaldi - Power of Now 8C/V15 (2nd ascent)
Next Winter 8000