Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno, Spain
words by Alexander Huber pic by Heinz Zak While the first ascensionists, José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives needed 69 days in winter 33 years ago, the German climbing duo of Alexander Huber (47) and Fabian Buhl (25) required only nine hours. They free climbed the infamous Sueños de Invierno route (literally …
Escaping the Rains of Catalonia
words and pic by Kai Fitchen The flight was long, and going into the new year being frisked by an equally resentful border security guard in Doha Airport wasn’t ideal, but I was so excited that I really didn’t care. Arriving, after 27 hours, to the gleaming face of Marine, who’d arrived a few hours …
Training for climbing – should be hard but not difficult
words by Hanna Vartia / 27 Crags pic by Dicki Korb As climbing is increasing in popularity and the bar being raised by climbers like Adam Ondra, Nalle Hukkataival and Angy Eiter, many are looking into ways to improve their climbing. We were more than curious to hear the thoughts of Dicki Korb, Alex Megos’s coach …
In Memory of Ian Slatem
words Tony Lourens and pic by Ashleigh De VIlliers On 1 January our brother, friend and fellow climber, mountaineer and seaman; our lovable and loyal vagabond of the hills and the oceans, Ian Christopher Slatem was sadly and cruelly taken from us in a freak climbing accident on the historically famous Arrow Final, an easy …
Rock Master Cape Town 2018 Results & Report
This year’s Rock Master was very different from previous years. Rock Master 2018, the 8th year running, moved away from the regular “Lead Climbing only” format, to embrace the new Olympic format, which includes three disciplines – Speed, Boulder and Lead. And all athletes have to compete in all three . . . and on …
Adam Ondra claims world’s first 9a+ flash at St. Léger
Adam Ondra has made a flash ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Léger in France. This is the first time a 9a+ has successfully been flashed. This is the first time in climbing history that a 9a+ has been climbed in this style, i.e. first go and knowing something about the climb, and even if …
Rock Master Cape Town 2018
The 8th Rock Master Invitational Climbing Competition is being held on Saturday 10th February at the brand new City Rock in Cape Town. This is one of South Africa’s premiere climbing competitions, where only the top athletes are invited to compete and the field will be kept relatively small to ensure maximum spectator excitement. Performances …
Roof of Africa
The huge route through Table Mountain’s Africa Amphitheatre, has been sent! The route received its first ascent over two days on 28 and 29 January, with an atmospheric night out on a ledge 6 pitches up. Tinie Versfeld, Dave Birkett and Hilton Davies, sent the 10 pitch, 250 metre route by doing 6 pitches on …
Oriane Bertone (12 yrs) in Golden Shadow, 8B+, Rocklands
Oriane Bertone, 12 years old, just sent Golden Shadow (8B+) in Rocklands !
Goodbye Miss Elizabeth Hawley, legendary chronicler of Himalayan expeditions
Miss Elizabeth Hawley has passed away at the age of 95. The American journalist was recognised as a legendary chronicler of mountaineering expeditions to the Himalaya. Keeper of the Mountains Trailer from Allison Otto on Vimeo. Read more… IMAGE: Miss Elizabeth Hawley, one of the most important figures in Himalayan climbing Photo by Asian …