Memories of Yellowwood – and the first ascent of ‘Newborn’
words & pics by JEREMY SAMSON I have a mixed relationship with Yellowwood. It is both incredibly friendly yet deceptively cruel. After freeing Armageddon Time Direct with Andre [Verkuil] in 1989, we topped out in the last of the evening light. For some reason we ended up trying to descend the wrong gulley and found …
Rock Master Jo’burg 2015
This year the annual Rock Master competition will take place at the new CityROCK gym which has just opened in Johannesburg. See below for more details. Rock Masters Jo’burg 2015 – Competitors list – Mens Ebert Nel Wesley Black James Barnes Dylan Vogt David Wade Mike van der Ham Sheldon Smith Dale Rosser Thomas Slabbert …
Stefano Ghisolfi Climbs Italy’s First 9b Route ‘Lapsus’
Just last week, news emerged that Stefano Ghisolfi had established the first 9b/5.15b route in his home country of Italy. We caught up with Stefano to find out more about the route and to check out the incredible footage of this ground-breaking ascent for Italian climbing. 2015 has seen perhaps more 9b routes climbed than …
REEL ROCK 10 Tour
The year’s best new films from the vertical edge, featuring Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Daniel Woods, and a special tribute to the late Dean Potter The REEL ROCK 10 film lineup A line Across the Sky – A Gnarly journey across seven jagged summits and 13,000 vertical feet of climbing. High and Mighty …
Generation Up!
Watch as award-winning teenagers, Ashima Shiraishi and Kai Lightner climb to new heights. [vsw id=”2BBF79N7uMg” source=”youtube” width=”550″ height=”400″ autoplay=”no”]
Dark waters, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has made the first female ascent of Daniel Woods’ Dark waters, ~8B, in the Clear Creek Canyon, just west of Denver, Colorado. Alex says she worked the problem for a total of eight days over five years, which means this is the problem she has had to work the hardest for so far. …
Calagonone Climbing Experience
Joe Kinder and Francesco Piras travel to Cala Gonone, a seaside village on the east coast of Sardinia, Italy. [vsw id=”143038598″ source=”vimeo” width=”550″ height=”400″ autoplay=”no”]
Ondra, Kim Sweep Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China
Adam Ondra (Czech Republic) dominated the IFSC Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China, this weekend, beating out Slovenia’s Domen Skofic by four moves in Finals. This is Ondra’s first gold medal of the season, but his consistent performances have landed him in second place for overall Lead World Champion, just ten points behind Gautier Supper …
Alex Megos in Modified, 11 (9a+ – 5.15a) in Frankenjura
During the visit of Ramon Julián in Frankenjura, Spring 2014, Alex Megos sends Modified, 11+ (9a+ – 5.15a). This route is considered by the german climber to be at the same grade level of Corona 11+ (9a+ – 5.15a), the super classic and hardest route in Frankenjura at that time. [vsw id=”142499746″ source=”vimeo” width=”550″ height=”450″ …
New Route on Table Mountain – el Matador **** (19?)
Sunday 11th October 2015, on one of those splendid and incomparable Cape Town days, my old china, Willie Koen, and I (Tony Lourens) put up a lekker new route on lower Arrow Buttress. The route takes a fairly direct line up the Bullshoot Prow, pulling through some nice bulges and roofs. Awesome route on good …