In This Issue
Ganesha 8c – Solo Redpoint, First Ascent
words by FABIAN BUHL pic by STEFAN SCHLUMPF After being the first to repeat Alex Huber’s Nirwana (8c), a 7-pitch route on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria, which is considered one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the world, Fabian Buhl was hooked. The 26-year-old wanted to open his own route in the same …
Yoga – Reducing fear with the power of your breath
WORDS BY MARISSA LAND PHOTO BY TOBY SAXTON As a climber, there will be at least one time in your climbing life when you want to push yourself to the next level and discover what you’re capable of. And for a lot of us, progression is a big deal; we all have tick lists and …
March – May 2017
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. FEATURES Alpinism for Codgers – ‘Friendly’ climbing on the Mont Blanc Massif By TONY LOURENS Whipper Taal …
Alpinism for Codgers – ‘Friendly’ climbing on the Mont Blanc Massif
words by Tony Lourens pic by Alessandro Gelmetti I stood amongst the ruins of the old Gamba Hut on the slopes of Mont Blanc. It was 6 am, and the early morning sun was just starting to caress the tips of the immense snowy peaks surrounding me. Orange-pink hues painted the tops of the famous Innominatta …
Whipper Taal – Climbing on Turret Peak
words and pic by Garrreth Bird Three smooth columns of orange and silver rock burst out of the rough mountainside. The textures and shapes toyed with the mind, as did the climbing possibilities; phantasmagorical was not too strong a word! Phlip (Olivier) and I did some heavy breathing as we stared up at the cliff. …
Shangri-La, the hidden paradise
words by Bernd Zangerl pics by RAY DEMSKI The tip of my left index finger drills mercilessly into a tiny, painful edge. Never say never. This tiny quartz edge can barely be considered a hold. What I am doing here can only be described as pushing. The quartz crystal bites into my skin. I don’t …
Improve your footwork with Yoga
words by Marissa Land pics by Sandra Eldabe I’m sure that throughout your climbing life you’ve heard many times over, ‘Climbing is all about the feet’. As beginner climbers, our more experienced friends tried their best to drill this into our brains. But no matter how many times someone told you to ‘look for the …
December 2016 – February 2017
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. FEATURES Climbing in Tierkloof – The Jewel of Gamkaberg by JOHANN LANZ New Routing in Greenland by …
Climbing in Tierkloof – the Jewel of Gamkaberg
By JOHANN LANZ Tierkloof reveals the magic of its somewhat unexpected depths gradually. It is not a grand landscape of soaring heights. Rather it is a small, self-contained world, contentedly remote from all that is outside it. It is an ancient, untroubled and pristine place, where a tiny stream has sliced through upturned layers of …
New Routing in Greenland
By ROB POWELL It was an unmistakable sound. Boom, boom, boom. ‘ROCK!’ Paul shouted. Not that there was much we could do about it – Paul was on abseil so he managed to pendulum over to the left, but David and I were tied to a hanging stance right where the couloir gets narrow. We …