In This Issue
Odyssey
words by TONY LOURENS pics by FRANK KRETSCHMANN The first ascent of the most difficult route through the Eiger North Face. – 31/8a+, 33 pitches, 1 400 metres The Eiger, the most notorious north face in the Alps and one of the most revered in the world, has always been a hard man’s playground. From …
Memories of Yellowwood – and the first ascent of ‘Newborn’
words & pics by JEREMY SAMSON I have a mixed relationship with Yellowwood. It is both incredibly friendly yet deceptively cruel. After freeing Armageddon Time Direct with Andre [Verkuil] in 1989, we topped out in the last of the evening light. For some reason we ended up trying to descend the wrong gulley and found …
September – November 2015
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. EDITORIAL – click to enlarge FEATURES The Story of Jabberwocky – Richard Lord Profile by TONY LOURENS …
The story of Jabberwocky & Richard Lord
by TONY LOURENS pic by LORD COLLECTION Looking back we really had such an amazing social scene going on . . . road trips to Monteseel, Montagu, and Blouberg. I think we just happened to be at the right place at the right time. Nicad batteries unlocked the blank canvas. There was a paradigm shift …
Cathedral Peak – A Drakensberg tale
words & pic by TONY LOURENS It had been nearly 30 years since I stood at the foot of Bugger Gully near the summit of Cathedral Peak. I didn’t really remember it from way back then, but right now it looked steep and ugly. In 1988 I was with my old china Willie Koen, and …
Incy Wincy Spider – Antics on Africa Ledge
by DOUW STEYN pic by RICHARD HALSEY On the right-hand side of the Africa Bust Up prow is a beautiful, clean, white face dissected by some rails. The widest gap between these rails is split by a tiny tantalising crack offering a glimmer of hope for a way through. Early this year, Gosia [Lipinska] and …
Ben Moons Climbs 9a
words by BEN MOON pic by STEVE LEWIS/MOON CLIMBING Yesterday I realized the dream I had of climbing Steve McClure’s classic 9a route Rainshadow. The dream began in 2012 while walking in the Yorkshire Dales with my wife. Our route took us under the amazing limestone cove of Malham. It wasn’t a great day for …
June – August 2015
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. FEATURES No Space for New Routes? New Tradding in the Cederberg and Other Stories by DOUW STEYN …
No Space for New Routes?
New tradding in the Cederberg and other stories. words and pic by DOUW STEY A long, long time ago, in a place not so far away, a climber once espoused that ‘For something like 20 years now climbers have periodically asserted that Table Mountain was “worked out”, that is, the possibilities of new routes have …
An African Safari
Reflections on a new route through one of Table Mountain’s biggest walls. Words by HILTON DAVIES pic by ROSS SUTER Tinie [Versfeld] made me do the second ascent with him. I don’t know why. But it was great in so many ways. Right from the first pitch, you realise you’re in for a tough day. …