In This Issue
Climbing at Umgeni and Other Stories
words and pic by Sam Stainton Hopping into the car at six in the morning is never an easy task, but as climbers we tend to do that a lot. The four of us were off on an adventure to explore ‘the unknown’, our destination being the crags of KwaZulu-Natal. Shortly after our arrival in …
The Bells, The Bells!
pic by Glenn Robbins An extract from Andy Pollitt’s autobiography, Punk in the Gym. The second ascent (onsight) of one of the hardest routes (at the time) in Britain. I thoroughly enjoyed the game of snooker. Its angles, technicality and the need to always ‘think three moves ahead’ – so be mindful of ‘position’. Always. …
Cautionary Tales
words and pic by Ant Hall Part narrative, part near-miss report, part instructional, Ant Hall revives our safety column discussing a topical theme each quarter . . . As I departed for Yosemite, Simon Larsen, my long-time climbing mentor, bid me adieu with: ‘Have a ball for me . . . remember to tie knots …
June–August 2016
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. FEATURES COLD FUSION (26) Cracking the wild line on the Energy Crisis Prow by HILTON DAVIES BE …
Cold Fusion (26)
words by HILTON DAVIES pic by TONY LOURENS Cracking the Wild Line on the Energy Crisis Prow I was sure that George was going to come flying off the top pitch of Alone in Space, and that the tiny wire nut that was his only protection would not stop him crashing into the boulder-strewn ledge. …
Mary Poppins
words by MARIJUS ŠMIGELSKIS pic by JULIA CHEN The 2nd ascent of one of the hardest trad routes on the African continent My climbing career had a somewhat unorthodox start. As a teenager, fresh out of primary school, I got hold of a how-to book on climbing, written in the 1950s – before sit harnesses …
South of 50 – In the footsteps of Shackleton
words and pic by SCARRE CELLIERS Tuesday, 10 November: I came on watch at midnight to the most fantastic night – almost breathless, spectacular starry sky (our fist clear night since leaving the Falklands five days earlier) and a little later there was enough dawn light to produce a silhouette of the island. Classic lenticular …
Die Versorgungslinie – 8C+, Kinnaur – Indian Himalaya
words by BERND ZANGERL pic by RAY DEMSKI It’s common knowledge that a journey begins with the first step. I finally made the first step of my longest ever bouldering journey in Spring 2011. Together with Fred Nicole, I discovered a spectacular bit of rock in the Indian Himalaya, which immediately grabbed my complete attention. …
March–May 2016
Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue. With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles. FEATURES AFRICA LEDGE Triple Solo. by Matt Bush VOYAGER (8b+), PEAK DISTRICT The first repeat of Ben …
Africa Ledge – Triple Solo
by Matt Bush Matt Bush is one of South Africa’s most talented climbers. His climbing conquests are numerous, with a long list of hard and impressive routes to his name. He is also one of the few climbers on the planet that have entered into the world of extreme free soloing. Matt has free soloed …