Classic Climb: Angus-Leppan, Sentinel Peak – Drakensberg

Classic Climb Angus Lepan

by Duncan Souchon

Mention the Drakensberg in climbing circles and many craggers will voice their feigning disapproval. Bad rock, big lead outs and long walk-ins are often the deterrent, and many climbers will spend their entire climbing careers giving southern Africa’s highest mountains a wide berth.

However, there are lines in the ‘Mountains of the Dragon’ that endure the title of Classic. The Escarpment Arête on Column, the Northern Arête of the Western eNjesuthi Triplet, Devil’s Tooth’s sinister line and Thomsen’s 1945 Mponjwane route spring to mind. But these routes all have long walk-ins, big lead outs and more often than not, suspect rock conditions.

The Sentinel’s Angus Leppan route on the other hand, while undoubtedly one of the ’Berg’s finest lines, does not require a 12-hour uphill slog, the rock is of fair quality and protection also reasonably safe.

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