Read the editorial and check out the contents of the latest issue.
With up-to-date news coverage, training articles, gear reviews, celebrity profiles, technical tips covering a wide variety of subjects, event reports, big glossy pics and enthralling articles.
Editorial
Devastating climbing ban – access rears its (very) ugly head again!
“The Victorian Government and Parks Victoria have announced sweeping bans to rock climbing at Arapiles, a place with more than 3,000 recorded routes.”
The climbing world was rocked to its core when this crushing news was splashed all over social media a few months back.
I have never had the privilege of climbing at Arapiles, but I have read numerous articles over many decades about the pristine climbing at this iconic crag and I, as many of you, have seen thousands of breathtaking images of climbers on the exquisite orange and black streaked walls of what many refer to as ‘the best crag in the world’, climbing routes that are regarded as some of the finest to be found anywhere – the most famous of course being Punks in the Gym, the world’s first 8b+, opened by the legendary Wolfgang Güllich and a route that the British climber, Andy Pollitt, dedicated the last part of his climbing career to. It’s that good.
When I read this news, I felt a deep sadness for world climbing. Even though it was happening on a continent thousands of kilometres away, I could feel the profound emotional effect across the waters. A sort of helplessness. Like when your favourite toy is taken from you as a child and you are powerless to get it back. The only thing you can do is ask nicely and hope that the powers that be will lend a sympathetic ear. But like all government bodies, they have other agendas, and a group of climbers lobbying for their most heartfelt lifestyle and passion to be returned is not an urgent matter for them to contend with.
To try and align my emotions to what every Australian climber must be feeling, I thought, imagine if I woke up one morning and read “The Cederberg mountains have been closed to all climbing”. Krakadouw gone, Tafelberg gone, Wolfberg gone, Truitjieskraal gone, Rocklands gone. The devastation we, as South African climbers, would suffer, is unimaginable. Almost suicidal! A huge chunk of our lives would be taken from us in the most brutal fashion, so I can imagine what this has done (and is doing) to our climbing brothers and sisters down under. I hope and pray (to the mountain gods) that this atrocity can somehow be turned around, or that an acceptable compromise can be agreed to, which can bring climbing back to this paradise.
But this does remind us, in no uncertain terms, of the delicate dance we perpetually have to perform regarding access to our beloved mountains and climbing areas. We take so much for granted, but with one quick signature on a document, crags, walls, and whole mountains can be pulled from beneath our feet before we have a chance to place our first piece of protection. It’s that scary!
If you are not a climber, you simply cannot understand the enormity of such a ban and the absolute devastation this will have on Australian and world climbing. It is tantamount to tearing the soul out of your chest, leaving a dark empty space. It just cannot be replaced!
Protect our mountains and be safe in the hills
Tony
Contents
A SCOTTISH TALE
Creags, Sgùrrs and Sea Stacks
by Tony Lourens
THE ZEN OF THE WILDS
by Roger Diamond
TRADATHON 2024 – CEDERBERG
by Amber de Decker
RAW EXPOSURE
CLASSIFIEDS
OFF THE WALL – FEET
by Brenda Marx
BOOK REVIEW – THE CLIMBING BIBLE
by Brenda Marx
BACK PAGE STORY – PENETRATION FACE, THEN AND NOW
by Mike Scott
