words and pic by FRANK KRETSCHMANN
Roger Schäli and Stephan Siegrist get FA of a new Alpine route on the west face of Rotbrätt on Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, Switzerland.
In the winter of 2017, Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schäli decided to establish a new route on Rotbrätt on Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps. There was only one other established route on the left part of the wall – Fätze und Bitze, established in 1990 by Swiss climbers Res Leibungut and Christoph Mauerhofer. The centre of the face is steep, hard and runout, with some passages only sparsely protected. Siegrist and Schäli began their endeavour in 2018. They chose the steepest part of the wall, since it was the only part that was dry and free of snow after a winter that saw much precipitation. Due to adverse weather conditions, the two alpinists were able to establish their route on their second try. Nine pitches on great rock on the impressive Rotbrätt on the Jungfrau were now waiting for a redpoint ascent.