For those who’ve read Maurice Herzog’s Annapurna, you’ll understand why Warren Eva and I had long dreamed of climbing Annapurna I. But you’ll also understand why so few attempt it. Despite being the first 8000er climbed, it remains one of the most dangerous, with a reputation for avalanches and treacherous conditions.
After summiting K2 in 2022, people often asked us, “What’s next?” Annapurna had always been on our minds, but it wasn’t until 2024 that we committed. We spent 18 months preparing – physically, mentally, and logistically. Our goal was to summit without supplemental oxygen.
We left for Kathmandu with excitement and nerves. A Bloody Mary on the flight – a mountaineering superstition – marked the start. Kathmandu, with its sensory overload, was familiar yet overwhelming. From there, we flew to Pokhara, a city more industrial than expected, but beautiful around the lake. Two days later, we began the rugged jeep journey to Humkhola, followed by a trek to Bhusketmela.
Unlike the popular Annapurna Circuit, we approached from the quieter side. Few trekkers venture here, and many climbers helicopter in. We couldn’t understand skipping the stunning trek – rivers, waterfalls, and woodlands. We moved from 1,200 metres to 3,600 metres in a day, partly by jeep.
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