Trad climbing down under


Climbing Down Under
Rob Saunders on the stunning cracks of 'Smoked Banana' (17), Frog. Photo Nathan McNeil

by Dave Barnes

Have you ever driven across the Australian Nullarbor? Flat as a pancake, windswept and devoid. The eastern edge of this great south land isn’t these. Australia’s eastern seaboard’s Great Divide snakes the length of the continent and throughout stands proud cliffs sporting hundreds of crags of great character and thousands of routes of charming quality. I will present one prime crag in each of the eastern states, crags that harbour trad climbing, the ones where you take a rack and leave nothing of your passing. I’ll start in the north and progress south.
I will be guided by the lesser acknowledged classics at key crags in each state and have stalwart climbers in each of these share their wisdom. My goal is to tickle your curiosity and let the crags draw you to their treasures. I’ve listed three sweet-as climbs to ponder and some practical information for each area. I’ve also made sure that they are not your standard trade routes. With these I invite you to come and explore trad climbing down under for yourself.

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